AE86 4.5AG 4-throttle idle control valve installation control

AE86, the car of the president of a sheet metal shop.

Idle control valve installation.

It is a racing vehicle that is not equipped with air conditioning, so it is not necessary to have an idle control valve at present. The idling is stable and does not stall.

However, if various conditions change, the idling speed may change slightly.

The idle control valve is installed to maintain the idling speed unchanged under all conditions, but... originally, lol

The reason for installing it this time is... . . . . . . . .

"It's a hassle to keep your foot on the accelerator until the water temperature stabilizes on a circuit in the middle of winter, so please install an idle control valve lol"

That's the reason lol

Since the owner says it's a hassle, let's install it lol

First of all...

Since the owner had two types of tanks, I chose the one with the larger hose diameter.

The idle control valve was reused from a Honda car.

The idle control valve is attached to the body, the tank to the engine, and the hose is wrapped around once to absorb vibration. It's OK if you leave a little slack, but you don't need to wrap it around once, but you should consider the situation, space, and swing range at that time. Let's make a final decision based on the appearance, but let's call it a temporary wrap lol

The idle control valve and output system, which consists of power lines, earth, and control lines, can be controlled with one output system.

With a rotary type, two outputs must be used for the opening and closing sides, while the AE111 and other models are three-wire types.

Stepping motor types have four systems.

They are used depending on the purpose of use, but they can usually be controlled with a normal solenoid.

Setting up the idle control valve.

If you adjust the throttle valve and idle screw so that the base opening rate is approximately 20-30%, you can ensure that there is enough space to use when idling up.

It is possible to set it to around 800 rpm for idle, or 900 rpm depending on the engine's usage, so it's flexible.

I also linked it to an air-fuel ratio meter.

Yay♫

It's stable (*˘︶˘*).｡.:*♡

I think Haltech is good for ease of use and stability in this area.

All the sensors and control parts are complete, so I'm organizing the harness.

Completely removing the distributor makes it super simple to build the exhaust manifold side, it's great (*˘︶˘*).｡.:*♡

For vehicles equipped with air conditioning, the air conditioning hose is installed on the exhaust manifold side, but if you remake the air conditioning hose, it is possible to build it simply even with air conditioning.

Electrifying power steering is rational and easy to use, so I recommend electrifying it if possible, and it's also very reliable these days. . . . Almost all genuine power steering is electric nowadays, so you can use it without the discomfort of the past.

By the way. . . . . .

This relay and fuse box. I made the engine harness to be a relay and fuse box, so I'm only using it for body control now.

If I use Haltech's upper range "Nexus Series", I think I can remove it without any problems.

Fuel pressure adjustment. Maybe a little higher would be better... Let's set it to around 3.6k.

Okay... Complete control completed... . . . . . . . . .

Making a harness is a lot of work, but it's very satisfying. You can replace a worn-out harness, and the electrical performance is improved, so it's great. You can also renew couplers, and it's reassuring to make a proper harness for an old car (*˘︶˘*).｡.:*♡

Now it's time to set it up.

Let's do our best.

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